IS YOUR SUNCARE ON POINT? The Ultimate Retinol & Sunscreen Guide For Brown Skin

Discover how retinol and sunscreen work together to protect brown skin, reduce dark spots, and keep your complexion healthy all summer long.

As we soak up the sun’s rays and the easier pace of summer, it is easy to loosen the grip on skin care… but I am here to tell you to maintain the discipline.  The sun’s rays, like the petals on a rose, are irresistible but if you grip it, its thorns will cut you.  Similarly, the rays which feel so soothing on the skin cause damage by burning you courtesy of the UVB rays and cause discolouration and fine lines courtesy of UVA rays. By the time summer takes leaves in mid-September you are left with patches and brown spots.

I do not advocate remaining in a hermetically sealed environment where you avoid the sun’s rays.  A little of sun is good for the body, as the sun’s rays help you to absorb vitamin D which aids in bone health.  The trick is to enjoy the sun but to treat the skin, and this can be achieved by using retinol at night and applying sunscreen during the day.

Retinol & Sunscreen Defined

Retinol is an OTC vitamin A product that stimulates collagen product and helps to minimise fine lines, wrinkles and discolouration. Sunscreen is a product that you apply to the skin to prevent skin damage.  Sunscreen comes in two formats, chemical, which absorbs the sun’s rays and physical, which blocks the rays.  In Canada, for a product to be labelled as sunscreen, it must have a DIN issued by Health Canada.

Retinol: How To Start

If you are new to retinol, it is prudent to ask for sample and try a few dabs on the side of face after you have washed your face. I recommend testing because retinol can redden sensitive skin and cause excessive dryness.

Once you have found a sample that works, buy the full-size product and add a tiny droplet into your nighttime routine every other night.  Remember that vitamin A is an active ingredient, so the skin takes time to adjust, so you cannot just foist it on your skin nightly.  After each night, carefully observe your skin each morning and look for signs of irritation and dryness.  You may settle on using the retinol thrice weekly and you may use it more frequently.  The key is to use retinol consistently, and when you apply it, to avoid putting the product near the eyes (unless it is a specialised cream).

Additionally, you may decide to apply a retinol product not on your face but on your neck, or the body.  Retinol can be found in a variety of specialised products, and depending on where you experience crepiness or discolouration retinol can be used with great success.

Remember when you start to use retinol, your skin will become more sensitive because of the all the repair work being done – so sunscreen is a must!

Retinol Recommendations for the Face

I love the skin care ritual of going to bed because it helps me to transition from my monkey mind to one that awaits a pleasant visit from Morpheus.  Given that I want the retinol to penetrate my skin, I turn my skin temporarily into a sponge by spraying my face with Avène Thermal Spring Water Spray which is my foundational product. The fine mist of water is bursting with minerals and trace elements to ensure an optimal mineral balance and a specific microflora, which provides a unique and exceptional character that soothes the skin, without drying it out.

After misting my face, I gently tap my face to encourage circulation and then on clean hands I apply 2 millilitres of a retinol product for my face.  I love the Clé de peau Precious Gold Vitality Serum, because it is a gentle, luxurious experience. This wonder product contains an exclusive 24K Gold Retinol Complex, which is a highly stable 24K gold and encapsulated Retinol ACE to effectively deliver ingredients to the skin. ACE is a derivative of Vitamin A, combats the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. After a month, I noticed that skin looked smoother and that my colony of brown spots on each cheek were in retreat.  I always followed the retinol with a light moisturiser to ensure that my skin was not dried out.

My skin responded well to retinol, and I decided to try a stronger retinol on a nightly basis, and opted for the Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3, which is described as concentrated facial cream with pure retinol that improves the appearance of visible signs of aging. The low concentration of retinol is ideal for beginners, and since I follow the cautious approach, I was comforted by the product description.  This product looks all business in its medicinal tube, which seals in the retinol and keeps it stable.  When you squeeze out the cream, it looks pearlescent, is odourless and is rapidly absorbed by the skin.  I noted that my skin took to it like a duck to water, and that overall my complexion became even smoother.

When we travel, it is tempting to drop skin care steps because the skin needs to rest.  I disagree because good skin is not just genes, it is nutrition and discipline.  The challenge when travelling by air is the 100ml limit for the liquids on the hand luggage. I discovered a nice way to keep up the retinol routine while saving on the 100ml limit is to use the Elizabeth Arden Retinol + HPB Ceramide Capsules, which deliver the retinol pre-dosed in tiny rose gold capsules, that can be accessed by twisting off the top. The capsuled are tiny bit carry enough product to cover the face and neck.  The cream is soft, and it was a luxurious experience. This a great way to keep up the retinol discipline while on holiday!

In parallel to my testing, my brother was trying the Paula’s Choice Intensive Wrinkle-Repair Retinol Serum.  His skin is quite oily, and he has deep wrinkles in in his forehead and some scarring on his cheeks, so his starting point for skin repair was more pronounced than mine.

He carefully washed his face daily and applied the serum every other day. I asked him about his experience, and he said that he did not see much of a difference because the lines on his forehead were still quite pronounced. Conversely, my mother is a power aunty who watches everything like a hawk and does not mince words, had a vastly different opinion.  She stated that his skin looks smoother, cleaner and much better than before – she loved the change in his complexion.  I noted that his cheeks looked smoother and agreed that overall his complexion improved.

My brother’s experience demonstrates the importance of expectations because he expected a cream to correct his deep lines ion his forehead.  An OTC retinol can help to lessen lines and scarring, but if the skin has deeper lines or scarring, a visit to the dermatologist would be helpful to evaluate prescription products, lasers and other treatments.

Retinol Recommendations For The Neck & Body

I am also concerned about the firmness of my neck skin, because I suffer from tech neck. The skin is thin and I prioritise keeping it firm.  I was intrigued by the Avène HYALURON ACTIV PROCEDURE Lifting Cream – Retinal 0.05% because it focuses on lifting the skin.  The retinal which is 3x more powerful than Retinol works in concert with the hyaluronic acid (which attracts moisture the skin) and niacinamide 2% (which reinforces the moisture barrier). I apply a droplet to the palms of my hand and massage my neck using upward motions, and after a month I noted that my neck looked smoother and firmer.

The skin on my body has become drier even though I exfoliate weekly and apply a body oil daily.   I figured that if retinol can help my face and neck look smoother, I figured the same logic would apply to my body.  I tried the Philosophy Ultimate Miracle Worker Resurfacing Body Serum, which is a odourless, lightweight white lotion that deals with the issue of crepiness and adds moisture to the skin.  Two key ingredients are the encapsulated retinol which supports collagen and elastin production for firmer, more resilient skin and grafted hyaluronic acid which attracts moisture.  I love how the product is rapidly absorbed by my skin and it looks and feels smoother.

Sunscreen is a Must

I have been using sunscreen successfully since I was 18 and it has a permanent place on my vanity.  Sunscreen protects the skin and ensures that the effect of treatment products, including retinol, continue to have impact because the damaging rays are either absorbed or blocked.

I am astonished by people who use skin care and then dismiss sunscreen usage because they need a little bit of sun. I think that approach is akin to repeatedly using same bath water to get clean – what is the point?  I trust my dermatologist who is sworn to cure and treat patients, and the scientists of Health Canada to answer my sunscreen concerns because they have ethical and professional obligations to deliver researched, responsible answers.  Their answers has been consistent: use sunscreen daily to protect the health of the skin.

As someone with a medium skin tone, I am always looking for sunscreen products that do not leave an ashen cast and are labelled as broad spectrum, so that both UVA and UVB rays are stopped in their tracks.

Since I have a morning skin care routine, I want a lightweight sunscreen that feels like a soft milk, is readily absorbed and creates a smooth surface for my make-up.  My obsession is the Clé de peau UV Protective Emulsion For Body SPF 60 because it is so thin that I apply t to my face, neck, arms legs and feet, and it works like a charm. My skin feels soft, and it does not look white.  It is handy to have a one product work from head to toe.  I see it as my moment to luxuriate before I take on the world.

The key to effective suncare is to touch up the protection at regular intervals throughout the day. I have found two methods that help me to maintain the protection without ruining my make-up:

1. Shiseido Ultra Sun Protector Clear Stick Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ is the standard when it comes to the clear sunscreen stick. When it initially launched it caused shockwaves, because it was the first sunscreen that suited everyone.  The texture is lightweight and the product glides on softly.  I applied the stick on my face and body while I explored Athens and Venice.  Since it is a solid, the product was not caught in my 100 ml liquid limit. The stick is now available in a larger size so that you can cover larger surface areas of the body.  I love it!

2. Another convenient refresh method is to use a spray such as the Live Tinted HUEGUARD® Invisible Body Mist SPF 50. I love using this method when I know that I will active and I will need a quick refresh. This nozzle emits a light, colourless mist which emits quick-dry formula which is non-greasy and has light coconut scent.

Summer Skin

The best way to have great skin is to repair and protect and to be disciplined year-round. I am focussed on repairing my fine lines and brown spots right now and always protecting that effort so that come autumn, I will feel confident about my complexion.

Suggested Readings
Sun-Savvy South Asians: The Ultimate Myth-Busting Guide To Sunscreen Products
The No-Nonsense South Asian Guide To Mastering The ‘Glass Skin’ Trend